Behnke Nursery Blog

We’re very sorry but the Boordy Vineyard Wine Tasting scheduled for today, May 9, @ 6:00 PM has been cancelled due to rain.

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Alternative Lifestyles: Planting with Nature in Mind

By: John Peter Thompson, Chairman, Behnke Nurseries; for more information on invasive species and sustainable, conservation landscaping go to his web log, INVASIVE NOTES 

For many gardeners, the term “invasive plant” spreads terror and discord, creating waves of anxiety and resentment. Currently, invasive plants are defined to be non-native, exotic aliens which reproduce furiously, replacing native plant species and complex self-sustaining ecosystems with, in some cases, biological deserts or monocultures.

The same qualities that make these plants invasive–they reproduce freely, grow voraciously and are virtually indestructible–ensure that they will become champion garden-trade species.

One way to think of invasive species is to think of all the weeds we do not want in our own gardens. The worst ones are those that creep in from our neighbors’ untended yards. Think “running bamboo,” and understand the feelings of those who are tasked with protecting natural areas. They are gardening with a “native-only” concept, and we are gardening with the “anything goes” model. This situation makes for uneasy neighbors, and opportunities for stress and discord.

Not all invasive species were introduced by gardeners or garden centers. Many simply hitched a ride on the bottom of a boot or in the cargo hold of a transport ship; even in the crates of packing materials we use to ship our consumer goods. But some, like kudzu, were originally introduced by the horticulture industry (1876), even though it took federal help to establish kudzu in our southern landscapes. Callery pear hybrids abound in the mid-Atlantic region as a highly recognizable invasive species, and are still recommended by local government agencies (Prince George’s County tree) as a street tree choice, even though the tree is almost always a bad long term landscaping solution.

When choosing plants for your garden, you should know the needs of each plant you select. Does it need light or shade; what are the optimum soil types; how wet or dry is best for your species; and what are the potential impacts on your immediate and regional ecosystem? Using native alternatives to invasive plants reduces the environmental impact and allows you to concentrate on the right plant in the right place.

What are some of the bad actors and what can we replace them with? Lythrum, or purple loosestrife, is a spike-flowered invasive perennial which can be replaced in the garden by Liatris spicata (also known as gay feather or blazing star), an excellent native alternative. Liatris is easily grown in average, medium-wet, well-drained soils in full sun. Once established, liatris tolerates poor soils, drought, summer heat and humidity, but is intolerant of wet soils in winter. The two foot tall clump-forming perennial has long spikes of rounded, fluffy, deep purple flower heads, appearing atop rigid, erect, leafy flower stalks.

If you are seeking a long summer bloomer to match the floral display of lythrum, try hybrid hibiscus such as ‘Lord Baltimore.’ Huge flowers, reliably perennial and fast growing, this plant will fill the summer and fall garden with knock-your-socks-off beauty until frost. Although they prefer wet soils, I have seen them tolerate some fairly dry conditions. And since they grow so fast, they can out-compete many pests, such as another invasive species, the Japanese beetle.

Another bad actor is English ivy. Drive through Rock Creek Park in Washington, DC (or the grounds of my house, and probably your house, too), and the evergreen vine which is pulling off branches of the shade trees is Hedera helix. It is tough to beat English ivy for an all-purpose, practical, indestructible, inexpensive and easy-to-grow ground cover. You do not need to weed it, feed it, water it, mow it, trim it or think about it until it pulls down a major shade tree or your gutter system to your house.

A terrific alternative is Pachysandra procumbens, or Allegheny spurge. This plant is native to the eastern United States and is not to be confused with the evergreen pachysandra you are used to seeing everywhere; that one is not native, and shows up on some “good plants gone bad” lists. Allegheny spurge is best in rich, moist soils and grows to around 12 inches high. It will grow in shade to part shade. In mild winters it may be partially evergreen.

Another great native alternative, Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas fern, grows in the natural areas of the mid-Atlantic. An absolutely wonderful, shade loving, no-maintenance plant, it has the additional feature of being evergreen. It thrives under trees, and can often be seen in quite dry conditions. Planted en masse, this 24 inch tall species is a workhorse of the shade garden.

An added bonus is that the Eastern white-tailed deer, with its voracious appetite and very bad manners, will eat almost anything else before the Christmas fern. In fact I have a rule which states that deer eat five hundred dollar exotics first, followed by many rare and endangered natives second, and then pretty much everything else. The Christmas fern manages to find a way off of the dinner menu and thus is a perfect choice for a native, natural, and non-controversial landscape solution.

There are other Maryland natives which are easily found in nurseries and can be used as groundcovers, including Tiarella cordifolia, or foam flower, with white flowers and a preference for moist shade locations. Another is Phlox stolonifera, or woodland phlox, in pinks, blues, and whites, which rise to 8 inches tall when in bloom in April.

As a rule, vines are troublesome. Their rambling nature predisposes them to invasiveness. A list of vines which have gotten loose in natural areas is a list of the naturalists’ most abhorred. Consider porcelain berry, Japanese and Chinese wisterias, Asiatic bittersweet, Japanese or Hall’s honeysuckle: these plants terrorize natural areas and native ecosystems. But all is not lost, for there are many well behaved native alternatives such as Wisteria frutescens, or American wisteria, which produces a gentler, not-so-over-the-top inflorescence and a willingness to live with its neighbors, gently draping itself across lateral tree branches.

If you don’t mind dealing with its aggressive tendencies, then the native trumpet vine, Campsis radicans, is for you. Although aggressive to the point of being rampant, it provides brilliantly colored flowers which serve to attract hummingbirds. The orange, yellow or red flowers are true show stoppers.

Tiarella cordifolia

Another great native alternative, Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas fern, grows in the natural areas of the mid-Atlantic. An absolutely wonderful, shade loving, no-maintenance plant, it has the additional feature of being evergreen. It thrives under trees, and can often be seen in quite dry conditions. Planted en masse, this 24 inch tall species is a workhorse of the shade garden.

An added bonus is that the Eastern white-tailed deer, with its voracious appetite and very bad manners, will eat almost anything else before the Christmas fern. In fact I have a rule which states that deer eat five hundred dollar exotics first, followed by many rare and endangered natives second, and then pretty much everything else. The Christmas fern manages to find a way off of the dinner menu and thus is a perfect choice for a native, natural, and non-controversial landscape solution.

There are other Maryland natives which are easily found in nurseries and can be used as groundcovers, including Tiarella cordifolia, or foam flower, with white flowers and a preference for moist shade locations. Another is Phlox stolonifera, or woodland phlox, in pinks, blues, and whites, which rise to 8 inches tall when in bloom in April.

As a rule, vines are troublesome. Their rambling nature predisposes them to invasiveness. A list of vines which have gotten loose in natural areas is a list of the naturalists’ most abhorred. Consider porcelain berry, Japanese and Chinese wisterias, Asiatic bittersweet, Japanese or Hall’s honeysuckle: these plants terrorize natural areas and native ecosystems. But all is not lost, for there are many well behaved native alternatives such as Wisteria frutescens, or American wisteria, which produces a gentler, not-so-over-the-top inflorescence and a willingness to live with its neighbors, gently draping itself across lateral tree branches.

If you don’t mind dealing with its aggressive tendencies, then the native trumpet vine, Campsis radicans, is for you. Although aggressive to the point of being rampant, it provides brilliantly colored flowers which serve to attract hummingbirds. The orange, yellow or red flowers are true show stoppers.

Popularity: 4% [?]

May 10, 2008

#S17    Reliable Summer-Blooming Perennials

            Larry Hurley, Behnke Nurseries Perennial Buyer

Buy now, bloom later! Most folks buy plants in bloom, which means their gardens tend to be showiest in late spring. Extend your garden display with summer bloomers-available now but not yet in color.

Popularity: 4% [?]

As we move into spring, days are getting longer and warmer, and once again lawns in the Washington area are turning green and starting another season of growth. Behnke’s is offering a few simple tips to get your lawn off to a great start.

Lawn Fertilizer- Spring is not a good time to fertilize the lawn, for several reasons. Fall is the ideal time to apply lawn fertilizers, while fertilizers applied in spring will only encourage a burst of lush top growth that is more susceptible to disease and insect damage. Lawns fertilized in spring are also more susceptible to drought, because it encourages only top growth and not a healthy root system. Also, broadleaf weeds and crabgrass will thrive on an early spring fertilizer application.

Herbicides- As was noted in an earlier email tip, early spring, just as the forsythia are coming into bloom, is the ideal time to apply pre-emergents in order to control crabgrass. Broadleaf weeds are better controlled as they just begin to grow in early May.

Lime- Spring is an excellent time to apply lime, if your soil pH is too low. As always, it is important to have your soil tested through the cooperative extension service or with a simple pH test kit available at Behnke’s. Maintaining a soil pH of 6.0-7.0 will make soil nutrients more readily available for uptake by the grass, thus ensuring a healthier lawn. Most types of lime are fine for the lawn, but pellet lime may be easier to apply for the homeowner.

Seeding- Although fall is the best time to seed a lawn, early spring is a fine time to over seed thinning or bare spots in your lawn. Remove thatch and debris from the area to be seeded with a steel rake, disturbing the soil to ensure good contact with the grass seed, and apply seed at the recommended rate. New grass will need to be watered regularly until it becomes established.

Mowing- As your lawn begins to grow and requires cutting, it is important to remember not to cut it too short. Three inches is ideal for most lawns, although zoysia and Bermuda grass should be cut shorter, on the order of 1.5-2″. Leaving grass longer and mowing frequently will make for a much healthier lawn than cutting the lawn shorter and mowing less frequently. Taller lawns are more drought resistant, and the tall grass blades will discourage weed growth. You may also want to consider letting your grass clippings remain on the lawn. The clippings decompose very quickly and are an excellent source of nitrogen.

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The “Sunday Morning Muffin Thing” with John Peter Thompson

John Peter Thompson, Chairman of the Board of the Behnke Nurseries Company and his lovely wife, Oksana are your personal guides to better gardening.

“This guy just knows everything! …and what a fun couple they are!” -Helen B., Silver Spring

“Well, I’ve only been twice, but I find I’m now looking forward to going every Sunday!” -Ellen S., College Park.

It seems like garden lovers everywhere are talking about Sunday Mornings with John Peter! If you haven’t yet experienced our fresh, new Sunday morning garden club, you owe it to yourself to drop by and join in.This casual, open forum discussion group is a once-a-week opportunity to speak one-on-one with the experts.

Having trouble with your lawn, roses, junipers, perennials? Can’t decide what to plant where? Need advice on going organic or planting native? John Peter and his guests will address whatever’s on your mind.

So, please make plans to join us every Sunday morning this spring at 11:00 AM; grab a cup of coffee and a muffin, pull up a chair and talk gardens with the Chairman of the Board, John Peter Thompson

“This Sunday morning muffin thing at Behnke’s is definitely the most fun I’ve ever had at a garden center!” -Mark S., Rockville

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